Autumn's End, pt. Duex

Autumn is truly a beautiful season here in Korea.

Anyone who has witnessed such beauty could attest to it, I guarantee it. Having experienced my first autumn here, I have to say that it was quite an alluring sight seeing the lush greens transform into the ablaze hues. As quick as these seasons come, they go, & now the rustic red, yellow, and brown leaves have given way to the icy and jagged white flakes of the winter.

What a crazy week it's been!

North Korea, behind Kim Jong-Il and his stubby fingered, trigger happy generals, just fiending for hell to break loose on the Peninsula need to relax, or just take a vacation somewhere. Who really knows what the true reason behind the attack was. I mean even those working for the propaganda offices probably didn't even know why the artillery shells were fired in the first place. Goebbels would have disapproved. Maybe it was the "hey-it's-winter-time-and-we-didnt-harvest-much-if/any-crops-so-we-need-more-rice-and-aid-here," maybe "hey-where-still-a-force-to-be-reckoned-with," OR "hey-kim-jong-un-wants-to-prove-to-the-regime-that-he-is-x-to-the-core." Whatever it was, the Republic of Korea seemed to be at high alert only momentarily. Since then, the initial distresses have more or less subsided, and everyone has resumed normal activity. The calm before the storm? Whatever that means... I always thought crazy winds and rain down-poured before the storm hit...

Anyways, I registered with the U.S. Embassy here just in case. Though I'm carrying around my passport around town, I'm going to take it a day at a time, & if anything happens, I've got no one else to blame except myself for willingly flying 5956 miles (or if you prefer, 9585 km) within 30 miles of the DMZ, and prior knowledge of NK's volatile, defunct, cold-war era shenanigans. Darn-it, the irony is impeccable!

More importantly I spent a quick 43 minutes at the Costco and loaded up on some American delights. Honey nut Cheerios, seedless grapes, sliced turkey with 3 different cheeses (cheddar, provolone, & feta), whole grain wheat bread, bratwurst, salami, & of course the muffins!!! I probably would have done more damage, but I arrived 43 minutes before closing time. If anyone wants to have a wine, cheese, and salami night at my place, consider it done! (I promise not to open the cheddar if you tell me within the next few days!!!)

A busy weekend kept me from posting this earlier, but I suppose it's always better late than never.

These pictures were taken a few weeks ago during a weekday morning bike ride through Olympic Park near Jamsil, and during a weekend bike ride by the Han River, passing alongside Cheonggyecheon (청계천), trekking up to the hills behind Gyeongbokgung Palace, perusing through Insadong, and eventually ending up back by 청계천 where the Seoulites had gathered en masse for one last visitation to the Lantern Festival that was coming to an end.



bracing myself for the winter,
 
 
pax
 
 
 

Music, Photography, & Hiking

Happy Birthday to my great friend, and ex-garage-mate: 12FV

Been on a Vodka & Milk binge lately.

I find it difficult to post music here, especially after it's been posted in a million other blogs, but sometimes it's too hard to resist. Having recently discovered V&M, the beats have me flailing my arms, while fisting pumping through imaginary crowds, like a drug-induced lunatic, separated from all sorts of reality, inside my villa. It makes sense to move, or at the very least go with the 130+ bpm. I wonder if the cowbells have anything to do with it? It's probably just the synths.

Two Door Cinema Club - What You Know (Vodka & Milk Remix) by Vodkandmilk

Tupac - Do For Love (Vodka & Milk Remix) by Vodkandmilk


///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

One of my students called me 'analog' today.

I had the w i d e s t smile on my face.

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\


I love Fridays.

Not so much that they have a reputation for bringing in the weekend, but rather how my schedule plays out against their prototypical design. I have the luxury of not having to wake up at 7 am, but I did a few weeks ago to go hiking with my Aunt at 금암산(金巖山), 하남시, on the outskirts of Eastern Seoul. It was a beautiful morning, and had I realized that before I loaded the Fujifilm Neopan 400 (b&w), I might have just thrown in my sturdy Fujifilm Superia 200 or 400. But after looking through these pictures, I realize that b&w can be so much more meaningful to a film photographer than an explosion of color. So having awakened up a lot earlier than usual, I was a bit perplexed and disoriented, but I made my way out to Myeong-il Station in Dogok-dong to meet my Aunt in front of the Paris Baguette by the alloted time (can't say the bread's of français de qualite, but sometimes their baguettes make it worthwhile).

We drove for about 35-30 minutes to the base of 금암산(金巖山), where we paid a small entrance fee, and parked as far away as possible from the trail gate. With my earbuds plugged in snuggly, we started our ascent. The golden leaves carpeted the rocky trail, providing ample cushioning under our boots, yet covert and slippery as the night fox. Fortunately for us, the climb was not too congested, though when we did bump into a few passerby's, Korea's hiking culture of "dressing to tackle Mt. Everest on any given Sunday" was in full-effect. From the spit-spat shiny boots, to the breathable gortex pants, Northface jacket, and carbon trekking poles, these hikers take hiking seriously. There's no respect for those climbing in jeans and a hoodie.

My Aunt is usually extremely happy go lucky, and I have never seen her so distraught with something going on in her life (Then again, I've only seen her perhaps a handful of times). She's a devout Catholic. A benevolent house-wife, full of innocence, with an exuberance for life. Yet that morning a cloud of sadness seemed to be circling over her head. But as we made our way up, she seemed to forget what was going on in her life a few hundred meters below. How a hike can easily evaporate any traces of stress, sadness, and sedentariness. Another advice: Hiking is an amazing stress reliever.

After stopping briefly a few times to refresh our thirst, we finally made it to the top after two and a half hours! There was a vendor selling Makgeuli, instant ramen, and boiled eggs. Since I had to work later in the afternoon, we decided to forgo the Makgeuli. We found a prime spot to enjoy our celebratory snacks. While we were slurping up noodles, and peeling off the eggshells, I noticed that there were some other hikers crowded around the side of a railing, squeaking, whistling gibberish, trying to get something's attention. A split-second later, I hear a woman's high-pitched shriek, as if she was shocked having just seen the most horrific thing in her life, or perhaps it was purely overzealous excitement? After looking carefully, I noticed that there were a flock of small birds gathering around, intrigued by the human players in their natural habitat. But it wasn't us they were interested in, rather, it was the morsel of bread that was in their hands. I remembered at that point that I had some red-bean bread saved (ironically from Paris Baguette), so I broke up a few small pieces and put them in my Aunt's hand.





it was as if...






... an Angel had landed on her palm...
 
 
pax
 
 
 

Autumn's End

I've been here almost a year now.

Where to begin?

I remember stepping foot outside of Incheon International Airport last November, attempting to take in a deep breath in sub-zero conditions, and thinking 'holy s***, it's freezing here!' How I survived through that winter is beyond me. Yet here I am, once again, facing these howling Siberian winds that are ready to tear me apart.

'Come and get some,' I say.

I'm ready this time around.

Going back to my year here. When I first arrived, I was immediately taken in by my Mother's brother and his family. It was one big welcome party. Yet, it felt a bit surreal. I had not seen my Uncle for many years, and had never seen his children before. It seemed like eons since I had last seen my Aunts, and my Grandmother. 13, or 14 years, perhaps. Since then Korea has emerged through the IMF crisis, has hosted the World Cup, has developed into the 15th (perhaps higher now) highest GDP in the world, has flirted with North Korea on numerous occasions, and is currently hosting the G20 Summit. In other words, South Korea's is a classic example of the rags to riches fairy tale. I certainly didn't see this coming.

Amidst the growth, Seoul is constantly propping up new buildings, and digging underground for new subway lines. The never-ending task of modernization. It's definitely not the Seoul I had remembered from the late 90's. I knew that somehow, somewhere there was a hidden side of Seoul that I had to find. I had to find my Grandfather's house again.

So after thawing out of last year's frosty winter, I left my Uncle's place mid-April-ish, and moved into my current villa. Decent in size, and comfortable for one person, I finally felt the true meaning of independence, and dually, solitude. My friends were there of course, as were my relatives, but being further away forced me to occupy my time differently. If anything, I probably spent more time throwing back cheap beers, and whiskey by Hongik University during the weekends. A hot-spot for foreigners, and college students alike, a huge social gathering. Commuting approximately an hour west via the subway, disregarding any notion for time, and breaking dawn with an equidistant ride back. As all post-grads would say, 'I'm getting too old for this s***.' Yet, some how I'd get coaxed back the following weekend.

One day, I decided I had had enough. I needed to detox. That's when I discovered my first road bike here. Korean-made, white framed, with yellow bar tape, that Samchuly NEXT road bike had been through a triathlon, and one other English teacher, before it found me through Craigslist. That's when I discovered the real Seoul - hidden among the labyrinth of apartments, coffee shops, and karaoke rooms. Traffic free of cars, the Han River became my Seoul mate. Dragonflies accompanying me as I seared through the smooth pavement, leaving the older matching couple in their mountain bikes stuck on their 2nd gear. I was on a different high, and I kept pedaling. I'd end work around 10 pm, and then ride under the crescent moonlight until I had gotten my fix. It was ritualistic. Even the humid summer nights didn't deter me whatsoever. I couldn't stop.

Then, I found her. Well, perhaps she found me. I had visited four camera shops before entering this one. After inquiring, the owner informed me that he did not carry the particular model I was looking for, as it was not a popular model in Korea. A bit dejected, I was on my way out when he told me he would check his buddy's store next door. Nervously waiting, he returned holding a chrome and black Nikon FE2 that I was desperately seeking. Since then, her loyalty has been exceptional. Fourteen rolls in, I still can't get enough. Digital lies, Film does not.

I was lucky enough to meet some cool people who share the same love for cycling and photography during this past summer, and we have gone on numerous adventures. One's from Florida, and the other from England (Nottingham was it? I swear it sounds similar to that). Then I befriended a local bike shop owner who had eagerly helped me fix my flat on my previous bike. After a few nights of eating and drinking the Korean way, I bought an American made Trek Alpha 1.1 road bike from him. Suffice it to say, she's light (aluminum), sexy (glazed blue) and rides a million times better with the Bontrager wheel set, and Shimano components.

They have both resuscitated me. Providing endless hours of joy and direction, I was able to explore and see an unfamiliar side of Seoul. Weaving in and out of the narrow backstreets, bustling markets, secluded underpasses, vacant lots, crowded campgrounds, graded hills, and sprawling parks have made my experience here worthwhile. Though maneuvering dangerously close between inconsiderate taxi drivers can be aggravating, it is easily remedied by riding next to the Han's mellow currents on a perfect autumn day. Gravel, dirt, or paved, it doesn't matter, as long as it soothes the soul. How easy it is to fall in love with a place.

So where ever you may be on this planet,

here is my advice:

Get a bike and a camera, and just go.

Well... I suppose the weather's pretty important too.