A Dynamic View of Seoul

It's March and the winter blues have somewhat subsided. Though it is still a bit chilly, with the winds still carrying a bite, I can feel spring just around the corner. With the onset of warmer weather, more people are finding ways to become active again, myself included. Though pedaling under 3 layers isn't as comfortable as biking in a t-shirt, merely getting back on the bike was enough to restore some balance into my life.

Here are some pictures from the past two weeks.
I was going to split it up into 2, or possibly 3 posts,
But I figure I'll just get started on my next project.
All shot on two rolls listed below.
With the majority of them from the 400nc.

Rolls:
1. Kodak Portra 400nc
2. Kodak Portra 400vc (not using this one for a while)

# of Photos --> Location --> Brief Description --> Pictures

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Kodak Portra 400nc

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[Namdaemun Market]
1-2) Saw an elderly woman just sitting next to the steps, and something tugged at my heart. I didn't get her name, but I felt a connection with her. Juxtaposed: Father and daughter representing the circle of life, no?

3) Bundaegi: roasted silkworm pupae. I can only eat that stuff when it's cooked in a spicy broth and I have many bottles of makkeuli to wash it down with.





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[Street]
4-5) The vendor was just chillin inside a telephone booth! Juxtaposed: The woman was fixated on these two mannequins, all the while muttering incomprehensible phrases.



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[Jongmyo Park aka. Ajjosshi Park]
6-7) Working the mind and soul with some brush strokes and beautiful calligraphy. Juxtaposed: Best way to stand out...



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[Gwangjang Market]
8-9) It was a bit overwhelming at times, with the idea of personal space thrown out the door as soon as you walked towards the center of the market where all the food stalls were located. I felt like a sardine in a can. The plethora of street food vendors made me nauseous at times, as it is definitely one of Seoul's, weirder spots (which I have nothing against).

10-11) The saxophonist was a hit! Juxtaposed: Two students(?) whose outfits seemed pretty cool at the time.

12) Kelly and the fantastic immo that hooked us up with a lot of fried goodness... perhaps a little too much...









We should have ordered the bindaedduk.

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[Platoon Kunsthalle]
13) Cool art hall/gallery/flea market (1st sat. of the month) made with shipping containers. Interesting concept, fully decked with ROK-hipsters, and those looking for the urban street scene. Took this picture during non-flea market hours, hence the lack of activity.
Located @ Gangnam-Gu, Nonhyeon-Dong 97-22



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[Myeong-dong]
14-15) I have to admit, I am getting a bit Myeong-dong'd out. But, I find that this is where the most fashionable ->foreigners<- seek refuge.
L: Thai. R: Nihon



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[Itaewon]
16-17) (read) Best Thai food I've had in Korea by far @ Buddha's Belly. Tom Yam Goong: A+++, Pad Thai: A, Green Curry: B+/A- . I'll probably eat here every other weekend from now on. Let me know if you want to go! Dishes are roughly 9-15,000, so a bit on the pricy-er side, given the portions (though we realized later that it was more than enough food), and definitely worth every won. You won't find another place that comes close to here.

18-19) The real-deal, the master-chef, the woman who made my palate go ballistic with all the sweet and spicy spices straight from Thailand! Juxtaposed: I wonder if he'll ever find this photo when he grows up?

20) HJ + Mel's old place in Noksapyeong. Hope it brings back old memories!










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Kodak Portra 400vc

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[Banpo Bridge]

21-22) The ultimate meet up spot for fixie riders and fixie couples. Juxtaposed: The underpass viewed from the northern side of the bridge.

23) I noticed that I had taken pictures of the two fixie riders (from the left) before, with their unique disc tires. Check em out on this post --> click here







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[Seokchon Lake]
24) Taken outside of Onnuri Fusion Food System?! Their Jjajang-myun isn't anything to rave about, but their portions are definitely bigger than some of the other places. I just really liked the reflections on the glass.



there it is!

24 photos of the city I currently call home, & now off to catch some zZz's.

thank you for tuning in!

pax

Autumn's End, pt. Duex

Autumn is truly a beautiful season here in Korea.

Anyone who has witnessed such beauty could attest to it, I guarantee it. Having experienced my first autumn here, I have to say that it was quite an alluring sight seeing the lush greens transform into the ablaze hues. As quick as these seasons come, they go, & now the rustic red, yellow, and brown leaves have given way to the icy and jagged white flakes of the winter.

What a crazy week it's been!

North Korea, behind Kim Jong-Il and his stubby fingered, trigger happy generals, just fiending for hell to break loose on the Peninsula need to relax, or just take a vacation somewhere. Who really knows what the true reason behind the attack was. I mean even those working for the propaganda offices probably didn't even know why the artillery shells were fired in the first place. Goebbels would have disapproved. Maybe it was the "hey-it's-winter-time-and-we-didnt-harvest-much-if/any-crops-so-we-need-more-rice-and-aid-here," maybe "hey-where-still-a-force-to-be-reckoned-with," OR "hey-kim-jong-un-wants-to-prove-to-the-regime-that-he-is-x-to-the-core." Whatever it was, the Republic of Korea seemed to be at high alert only momentarily. Since then, the initial distresses have more or less subsided, and everyone has resumed normal activity. The calm before the storm? Whatever that means... I always thought crazy winds and rain down-poured before the storm hit...

Anyways, I registered with the U.S. Embassy here just in case. Though I'm carrying around my passport around town, I'm going to take it a day at a time, & if anything happens, I've got no one else to blame except myself for willingly flying 5956 miles (or if you prefer, 9585 km) within 30 miles of the DMZ, and prior knowledge of NK's volatile, defunct, cold-war era shenanigans. Darn-it, the irony is impeccable!

More importantly I spent a quick 43 minutes at the Costco and loaded up on some American delights. Honey nut Cheerios, seedless grapes, sliced turkey with 3 different cheeses (cheddar, provolone, & feta), whole grain wheat bread, bratwurst, salami, & of course the muffins!!! I probably would have done more damage, but I arrived 43 minutes before closing time. If anyone wants to have a wine, cheese, and salami night at my place, consider it done! (I promise not to open the cheddar if you tell me within the next few days!!!)

A busy weekend kept me from posting this earlier, but I suppose it's always better late than never.

These pictures were taken a few weeks ago during a weekday morning bike ride through Olympic Park near Jamsil, and during a weekend bike ride by the Han River, passing alongside Cheonggyecheon (청계천), trekking up to the hills behind Gyeongbokgung Palace, perusing through Insadong, and eventually ending up back by 청계천 where the Seoulites had gathered en masse for one last visitation to the Lantern Festival that was coming to an end.



bracing myself for the winter,
 
 
pax
 
 
 

Autumn's End

I've been here almost a year now.

Where to begin?

I remember stepping foot outside of Incheon International Airport last November, attempting to take in a deep breath in sub-zero conditions, and thinking 'holy s***, it's freezing here!' How I survived through that winter is beyond me. Yet here I am, once again, facing these howling Siberian winds that are ready to tear me apart.

'Come and get some,' I say.

I'm ready this time around.

Going back to my year here. When I first arrived, I was immediately taken in by my Mother's brother and his family. It was one big welcome party. Yet, it felt a bit surreal. I had not seen my Uncle for many years, and had never seen his children before. It seemed like eons since I had last seen my Aunts, and my Grandmother. 13, or 14 years, perhaps. Since then Korea has emerged through the IMF crisis, has hosted the World Cup, has developed into the 15th (perhaps higher now) highest GDP in the world, has flirted with North Korea on numerous occasions, and is currently hosting the G20 Summit. In other words, South Korea's is a classic example of the rags to riches fairy tale. I certainly didn't see this coming.

Amidst the growth, Seoul is constantly propping up new buildings, and digging underground for new subway lines. The never-ending task of modernization. It's definitely not the Seoul I had remembered from the late 90's. I knew that somehow, somewhere there was a hidden side of Seoul that I had to find. I had to find my Grandfather's house again.

So after thawing out of last year's frosty winter, I left my Uncle's place mid-April-ish, and moved into my current villa. Decent in size, and comfortable for one person, I finally felt the true meaning of independence, and dually, solitude. My friends were there of course, as were my relatives, but being further away forced me to occupy my time differently. If anything, I probably spent more time throwing back cheap beers, and whiskey by Hongik University during the weekends. A hot-spot for foreigners, and college students alike, a huge social gathering. Commuting approximately an hour west via the subway, disregarding any notion for time, and breaking dawn with an equidistant ride back. As all post-grads would say, 'I'm getting too old for this s***.' Yet, some how I'd get coaxed back the following weekend.

One day, I decided I had had enough. I needed to detox. That's when I discovered my first road bike here. Korean-made, white framed, with yellow bar tape, that Samchuly NEXT road bike had been through a triathlon, and one other English teacher, before it found me through Craigslist. That's when I discovered the real Seoul - hidden among the labyrinth of apartments, coffee shops, and karaoke rooms. Traffic free of cars, the Han River became my Seoul mate. Dragonflies accompanying me as I seared through the smooth pavement, leaving the older matching couple in their mountain bikes stuck on their 2nd gear. I was on a different high, and I kept pedaling. I'd end work around 10 pm, and then ride under the crescent moonlight until I had gotten my fix. It was ritualistic. Even the humid summer nights didn't deter me whatsoever. I couldn't stop.

Then, I found her. Well, perhaps she found me. I had visited four camera shops before entering this one. After inquiring, the owner informed me that he did not carry the particular model I was looking for, as it was not a popular model in Korea. A bit dejected, I was on my way out when he told me he would check his buddy's store next door. Nervously waiting, he returned holding a chrome and black Nikon FE2 that I was desperately seeking. Since then, her loyalty has been exceptional. Fourteen rolls in, I still can't get enough. Digital lies, Film does not.

I was lucky enough to meet some cool people who share the same love for cycling and photography during this past summer, and we have gone on numerous adventures. One's from Florida, and the other from England (Nottingham was it? I swear it sounds similar to that). Then I befriended a local bike shop owner who had eagerly helped me fix my flat on my previous bike. After a few nights of eating and drinking the Korean way, I bought an American made Trek Alpha 1.1 road bike from him. Suffice it to say, she's light (aluminum), sexy (glazed blue) and rides a million times better with the Bontrager wheel set, and Shimano components.

They have both resuscitated me. Providing endless hours of joy and direction, I was able to explore and see an unfamiliar side of Seoul. Weaving in and out of the narrow backstreets, bustling markets, secluded underpasses, vacant lots, crowded campgrounds, graded hills, and sprawling parks have made my experience here worthwhile. Though maneuvering dangerously close between inconsiderate taxi drivers can be aggravating, it is easily remedied by riding next to the Han's mellow currents on a perfect autumn day. Gravel, dirt, or paved, it doesn't matter, as long as it soothes the soul. How easy it is to fall in love with a place.

So where ever you may be on this planet,

here is my advice:

Get a bike and a camera, and just go.

Well... I suppose the weather's pretty important too.

Yeoido, pt. deux

one "decisive moment" to capture,

what's there, and what's not,

fleeting,

merciless,

unbothered.

a window,

of favorable opportunity,

remains open.

there is no room for err,

yet in it's wake,

a pièce de résistance.

this kid is loving his life right now!